Genoa is Italy's most surprising city for those who don't know it — the caruggi (the medieval alleys of the historic centre, Europe's largest by surface area) hide 16th-17th century noble palaces with frescoes, Baroque churches and ancient warehouses. From the outside it looks like an industrial port city of little tourist interest — from the inside it is one of the capitals of the Italian Renaissance, with the highest concentration of patrician palaces per square metre after Rome. The Strade Nuove (Via Garibaldi, Via Balbi, Via Cairoli) have been UNESCO Heritage since 2006. From Turin by train: 1h 45' (€12-20). From Milan: 1h 20' (€15-30). From Rome: 4h 30' (€35-80). Cristoforo Colombo airport (GOA) is on the sea 6km away — volabus €6 (30 min) or taxi (€15).
The Strade Nuove and the Palazzi dei Rolli
The Strade Nuove (Via Garibaldi first) are the streets that the Genoese Comune opened in the 16th century to give the Genoese nobility residences worthy of the world's most powerful bankers — Genoa financed the Spanish Empire and its bankers were richer than the Medici. The Palazzi dei Rolli (the public hospitality system that obliged nobles to host visiting kings and ambassadors, inscribed in lists — the 'rolli') are today museums: Palazzo Rosso (€10, works by Rubens, Van Dyck, Dürer), Palazzo Bianco (€10, Caravaggio, Veronese, Murillo), Palazzo Doria Tursi (€10, Municipal seat, with Paganini's violin and majolica). The first and second weekend of each month the Palazzi dei Rolli open for free — check the dates before leaving.
The Caruggi and Ligurian Gastronomy
The caruggi (medieval alleys of the historic centre) are one of Europe's densest and most fascinating urban labyrinths — streets 1-2m wide with 5-6 storey buildings blocking sunlight. The classic route goes from the Porto Antico (the old port, with Genoa's Aquarium — €28-33, Europe's largest) through the caruggi to the Strade Nuove. Genoese farinata (chickpea flour, water, extra virgin oil, cooked in wood oven in copper trays — the chickpea focaccia, different from Tuscan cecina) is eaten hot from caruggi stalls (€1.50 per slice). Genoese focaccia (thick, soft, dimpled, with coarse salt and oil on the surface — different from all other Italian focaccias) is ubiquitous. Recco cheese focaccia (very thin crumbly pastry with crescenza inside — produced only in Recco, 20km from Genoa) has been IGP since 2015. DOP Genoese pesto (DO Genoese basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan, pecorino, Ligurian extra virgin oil — in the mortar, never the blender) is bought fresh in caruggi shops.
Camogli, Portofino and the Eastern Riviera
Camogli (25km from Genoa, train 30 min €3) is Liguria's most authentic fishing village — the tall colourful houses on the harbour, still-active fishing boats, the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta on the promontory. The Red Trail (from Camogli to Portofino via Monte di Portofino, 3h) crosses the Portofino Regional Natural Park — the view over the Abbey of San Fruttuoso (only reachable on foot or by boat, €5) is priceless. San Fruttuoso is one of Liguria's rarities: a 10th-century Benedictine abbey in a rocky cove accessible only by sea — the Madonnina del Mare (the underwater statue at 17m depth, dedicated to fallen sailors) is the most original attraction. Portofino (ferry from Camogli €10 or from Santa Margherita Ligure €5) has Castello Brown (€5) and the lighthouse (1h on foot) — prices among Liguria's highest.
Practical tips
The Palazzi dei Rolli open for free the first and second weekend of the month — the Van Dyck and Rubens collections are among Italy's most important
Farinata is eaten hot from caruggi stalls — not in tourist restaurants at the Porto Antico
Camogli (train 30 min, €3) is more authentic than Portofino and cheaper — better base for the Eastern Riviera
DOP Genoese pesto is made in a mortar — the jarred supermarket version is not pesto, it is sauce
San Fruttuoso (medieval abbey only accessible by boat or on foot) is the finest thing on the Eastern Riviera
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