Grappa was born as a recovery product — distilling vinacce (skins and seeds after pressing) was the way peasants extracted alcohol from what would otherwise be discarded. In Piedmont, where Nebbiolo produces vinacce rich in aromatic compounds, that recovery tradition transformed into something completely different: some of the world's most prized grappas come from this territory. But the story of Piedmontese spirits does not end with grappa. Barolo Chinato — an aromatised wine based on aged Barolo with cinchona bark, cardamom, cinnamon and some thirty herbs — is one of Italy's great digestives, almost impossible to find outside Italy. Vermouth di Torino, covered in a separate guide, completes the picture of an aromatised beverage culture rooted in Turin's 18th-century pharmaceutical laboratories.
Grappa: How It's Made and How to Choose
Grappa is obtained by distilling vinacce — the solid residues after fermentation. Quality depends on three factors: freshness of the vinacce (must be distilled within 24-48 hours of pressing), distillation method (discontinuous steam still, much slower and more qualitative than industrial continuous), and ageing (stainless steel for young fruity grappas; wood for structured ones). Label designations: Grappa di Barolo (from Nebbiolo vinacce — maximum complexity), Grappa di Moscato (the most aromatic, almost sweet), Grappa Invecchiata or Riserva (at least 12 months in wood), Grappa Stravecchia (at least 18 months). Alcohol usually 40-50%. Serve at 12-14°C in tulip glasses, never iced — cold closes the aromas.
The Distillers: Berta, Bocchino, Romano Levi
Berta (Casalotto di Mombaruzzo, AT) is Italy's most awarded artisan grappa house — discontinuous steam distillation, ageing in small oak casks. Reference products: Tre Soli Tre (aged Barbera grappa) and Berta Barolo. Bocchino (Canelli, AT, founded 1898): historic distillery in Canelli's UNESCO underground cellars, Moscato grappa as flagship product, attached grappa museum. Romano Levi (Neive, CN, 1923-2008): the most extraordinary case — a distiller-craftsman-artist who hand-drew every bottle label with poems and naïf illustrations. He produced very few bottles per year. His grappas are now collectible objects: a bottle with original label is worth €200-1,000. Julia (Santo Stefano Belbo, CN): works exclusively with fresh Moscato di Canelli vinacce — Julia's Moscato grappa is among the most aromatic commercially available.
Barolo Chinato: the Great Digestive
Barolo Chinato is a category of its own — not a grappa, not a wine, not a classic amaro. It is an aromatised wine: Barolo DOCG as the alcoholic base, enriched with cinchona bark (from which quinine is extracted), cardamom, cinnamon, rhubarb, gentian and some thirty other herbs, aged in barrel for at least a year. The result is bitter, spiced, with the body of Barolo and the aromatic complexity of the herbs. Drink at room temperature as a digestive or in Barolo Chinato on the rocks with orange peel. Historic producers: Cocchi (Asti, founded 1891 — the market reference), Cappellano (Serralunga d'Alba, very limited production, considered by many the finest), Marolo (Alba). Price: €25-45 per 50cl bottle. Barolo Chinato is almost impossible to find outside Italy — take it home.
Where to Buy and How to Taste
The Enoteca Regionale del Barolo (Castello Falletti, Barolo) sells local Barolo grappas at estate prices. In Canelli: Distilleria Bocchino is visitable with attached museum (Via Alba 15, booking recommended). Berta and Bocchino distilleries sell directly on site with tasting. In Turin, Barolo Chinato is at historic bars: Drink Kong (Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 11) uses it in cocktails; Caffè Torino (Piazza San Carlo) sells it by the glass. By plane: grappa bottles (40-50%) must go in checked luggage. Barolo Chinato (16-18%) is technically wine — it can travel as such.
Practical tips
Grappa di Moscato is the most approachable for newcomers — the aroma is almost identical to the wine, sweet and floral, with very little harshness. Perfect starting point
Barolo Chinato is almost impossible to find outside Italy — buy at least two bottles (€25-45 from Cocchi or Cappellano). Price abroad when you can find it: double
Grappa is served at 12-14°C in tulip glasses — never iced. Cold turns a fine spirit into burning alcohol
Romano Levi of Neive's bottles are collectible objects: worth €200-1,000. If you find one in an enoteca, buy it without hesitation
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