The International White Truffle Fair of Alba takes place every October weekend and the first half of November — it is Piedmont's most important food and wine event and one of Europe's most significant. The white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico) is the world's most prized underground fungus — it grows spontaneously in the oak, willow and poplar woods of the Langhe, Monferrato and Roero, and cannot be artificially cultivated. The price varies between €2,000 and €6,000 per kg depending on the vintage, autumn rainfall and specimen size (specimens over 100 grams are rare and worth more per gram). The trifolau (the truffle hunter, with his trained truffle dog) works at night, with a headlamp, in absolute secrecy at his sites.
The Fair and the Truffle Market
The white truffle market (Cortile della Maddalena, Via Vittorio Emanuele 19, Saturday and Sunday in October from 9:00 to 18:00, €5 entry) is the Fair's heart — the trifolau display their specimens on white velvet counters, weighed and documented. The price per gram is negotiated directly with the producer — at the market you pay more than at private auctions, but you see and smell the specimen before buying. Restaurant tastings in the Langhe during the Fair are organised with white truffle menus (€60-150 per person): tajarin al burro e tartufo, poached egg with truffle, vitello tonnato with truffle shavings. Simplicity is essential — white truffle must not be cooked or covered by other strong flavours. The Palio degli Asini (the donkey race of Alba's 13 contrade, ironic homage to Siena's Palio, late October) is the Fair's most colourful and attended event.
Langhe: Wine, Villages and Barolo
The Langhe (UNESCO 2014 for the vine-growing landscapes) are the hills south of Alba — the zone of Barolo DOCG (the 'wine of kings and king of wines', Sangiovese Grosso/Nebbiolo, 11 communes including La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, Monforte d'Alba), Barbaresco DOCG (3 communes: Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso), Dolcetto d'Alba DOC and Moscato d'Asti DOCG. Visitable cellars: Gaja (Barbaresco, the world's most famous, €60-100 for tasting), Giacomo Conterno (Monforte d'Alba, Barolo Monfortino is Italy's most collected), Bruno Giacosa (Neive), Bartolo Mascarello (Barolo). Most beautiful villages: La Morra (belvedere over the Po plain), Barolo (the castle with WiMu — the wine museum), Serralunga d'Alba (intact medieval castle), Neive (medieval hilltop village). The Tonda Gentile Trilobata delle Langhe IGP hazelnut is Italy's most prized — Nutella uses it in a declared percentage.
Practical tips
Book Alba hotels months in advance for October weekends — they are completely sold out from September
White truffle is eaten raw, grated on the spot on simple dishes — never cooked, never with strong flavours
The Palio degli Asini (late October) is the Fair's most colourful spectacle — absolutely not to be missed
Barolo cellars are booked online — Gaja and Conterno require months' wait for a visit
Langhe hazelnuts (IGP Tonda Gentile) are bought directly at local markets — the base of the original Nutella
Plan your visit to the Alba Truffle Fair
White truffle, Barolo and Langhe in October — itinerary in 5 minutes.
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