The Cinque Terre (UNESCO Heritage 1997) are five villages clinging to the cliffs of the eastern Ligurian Riviera — Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore — with colourful houses dropping sheer to the sea. It is one of Italy's most photographed destinations and, in July-August, one of the most overcrowded. The fundamental rule: don't go in August without booking, don't bring a car (no parking), don't expect normal Ligurian prices. The correct way to visit is by train (Cinque Terre Express, €4 single or €18.20 Cinque Terre Card with unlimited trains and trail): the villages are connected every 15-20 minutes. From La Spezia (the provincial capital, 15 min by train) everything can be managed. From Genoa: 1h 20' by train. From Milan: 3h by train.
The Five Villages: Character and Differences
Monterosso al Mare is the largest village (1,500 inhabitants) and the only one with a real sandy beach — the seafront is the most lively, prices the highest. Vernazza is considered the most beautiful village — the natural harbour, medieval tower, colourful houses reflected in the green water are the Cinque Terre's symbolic image. Corniglia is the only village not directly facing the sea — reached by 382 steps from the station (or bus, €2) and has the lowest crowds. Manarola (with the via dell'amore — partially reopened after works) is the most photographed village at night — the lights of the houses reflected in the harbour are the classic shot. Riomaggiore is the southernmost village, directly on the border with La Spezia — less picturesque than the others but cheaper and more authentic.
Trails and Excursions
The Cinque Terre Card (€18.20/day, €29.20 with ferry) includes unlimited trains and access to the main trail (SVA, Blue-Green Trail — the coastal path connecting the five villages, 11km total, 5-6h). The trail is divided into sections of different difficulty — the Monterosso-Vernazza stretch (2h, the most beautiful and most difficult) and Vernazza-Corniglia (1h 30') are the finest. The Corniglia-Manarola and Manarola-Riomaggiore stretches (Via dell'Amore, 1km, easy) are the simplest. The Via dei Santuari (trails climbing to the sanctuaries above the villages) offers more exclusive views and fewer crowds — the Sanctuary of Soviore above Monterosso is reachable in 1h 30'. Kayak and boat excursions (€30-60) depart from Monterosso and Riomaggiore — the best way to see the cliffs from the water.
Ligurian Cuisine: Pesto, Focaccia and Anchovies
Cinque Terre cuisine is Ligurian — DOP Genovese pesto (Genovese basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan, pecorino, Ligurian extra virgin oil), Genovese focaccia (thick, soft, with oil on the surface — different from Bari-style focaccia), Monterosso salted anchovies (the Mediterranean's finest, preserved in wooden barrels). Trofie al pesto and trenette al pesto are the local pasta formats. Sciacchetrà is the Cinque Terre passito wine — produced from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino on terraces dropping to the sea, sweet and concentrated, costs €15-25 a glass in local cellars. Recco cheese focaccia (different from normal focaccia — very thin pastry with crescenza inside) is only found between Recco and Camogli, 40km from the Cinque Terre.
Practical tips
Don't go to the Cinque Terre in August without booking — the villages have limited capacity and prices triple
The Cinque Terre Card (€18.20) includes unlimited trains and the trail — it is always convenient compared to single tickets
Corniglia is the village with fewest crowds — climb the 382 steps or take the bus (€2)
Sciacchetrà (local passito wine) is tasted in cellars above the villages — costs €15-25 a glass but worth it
The Monterosso-Vernazza trail stretch is the most beautiful but also the most difficult — hiking shoes mandatory
