Matera is the world's oldest city with continuous human settlement — inhabited for 10,000 years, it was until 1952 the symbol of southern Italian poverty (Carlo Levi called it 'Italy's shame'), then evacuated and repopulated, then declared UNESCO Heritage in 1993 and European Capital of Culture in 2019. The Sassi (Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano) are the cave neighbourhood dug into the clay tufa of the gravina — a natural canyon separating the city from the Murge countryside. The transformation is total: the same caves that were open sewers in 1950 are today luxury hotels and starred restaurants. Reached from Naples in 2h 30' by car (230km) or from Bari in 1h 30' (65km, FAL train to Ferrandina then bus).
The Sassi: Caveoso and Barisano
Sasso Caveoso is the most scenic — it overlooks the gravina with rock-hewn churches (Santa Maria de Idris, San Pietro Caveoso, Santa Lucia alle Malve). The view from the Via Buozzi belvedere over Sasso Caveoso and the gravina is Matera's most photographed. Sasso Barisano is the most frequented — here are concentrated the restaurants, sassi hotels and the main tourist route. The MUSMA Museum of Contemporary Sculpture (€5, in Palazzo Pomarici, sassi transformed into exhibition rooms) is one of southern Italy's most original contemporary art museums. The Murgia Materana Park (free visit, guides available) is the canyon opposite Sasso Caveoso — reached on foot through the gravina to see the sassi from outside.
The Crypt of Original Sin
The Crypt of Original Sin (18km from Matera, Picciano locality, mandatory booking, guided tour €15) is the Sistine Chapel of cave art — 8th-9th century AD frescoes in a limestone cave, with angels, saints and biblical scenes that have preserved their original colours for 1,200 years. The discovery was in 1963 — the crypt was buried under agricultural soil. The guide is mandatory (guided visits only, fixed times) — book at least 48h in advance. Matera DOP Bread (sourdough, thick golden crust, yellow crumb — made with Senatore Cappelli durum wheat) is bought from Sasso Barisano and centre bakeries. The peperoncina piccante (dried sweet pepper fried in oil) is the identity vegetable of Materan cuisine.
Maratea and Pollino: Day Trips from Matera
Maratea (120km, 1h 30' by car) is the south's most beautiful Tyrrhenian coast — 32km of white cliffs and coves, almost without beach clubs. The Cristo Redentore (22m, visible from the entire coast) dominates the Gulf of Policastro from Monte San Biagio. Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa (50km, 1h by car) are two medieval villages perched on Dolomitic peaks in the Lucanian Apennines — the Angel's Flight (zipline between the two villages, 1,415m long, 120km/h, Europe's longest) must be booked online. Pollino National Park (on the Basilicata-Calabria border) has the millennial pino loricato trees (Pinus leucodermis, endemic to the Dinaric Alps and Pollino) and the Raganello canyon (guided trekking, 6h). Alberobello and the Itria Valley (90km east) complete the exploration of Basilicata and adjacent Puglia.
Practical tips
The Crypt of Original Sin must be booked at least 48h in advance — visits are guided only at fixed times
Sleeping in a sassi hotel is Matera's most authentic experience — the caves maintain a constant 15°C year-round
The Angel's Flight between Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa (50km from Matera) is Europe's longest zipline — book online
The view over the Sassi from the Murgia Park (crossing the gravina on foot) is more beautiful than any city viewpoint
DOP Matera Bread with fried sweet pepper is the local breakfast — buy it from Sasso Barisano bakeries at 8:00
Plan your Matera weekend
Sassi, Crypt of Original Sin and Maratea — itinerary in 5 minutes.
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