Montalcino (5,200 inhabitants, 40km from Siena, 45 min by car) is the territory of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG — one of the world's most long-lived and prized red wines, produced from Sangiovese Grosso (locally called Brunello) by 153 producers on 3,500 hectares. Exceptional vintages (2006, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2016) cost €100-500 per bottle. Rosso di Montalcino DOC (the younger version, same grape, less ageing — €20-50) is the most affordable way to approach the territory. The visit is organised in half a day for the historic centre and cellars, adding Pienza and Sant'Antimo for a full day.
Brunello and the Cellars
The Fortezza di Montalcino (€6 including wine shop) has the most complete Brunello selection in one place — the most affordable and scenic way to taste wines from multiple producers without booking individual cellars. Visitable cellars by appointment: Biondi-Santi (the historic cellar, founded 1888 by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi who 'invented' Brunello — the 1888 Riserva is the oldest still-drinkable Italian wine), Banfi (large international producer, easy visits), Argiano (beautiful cellar with park), Casanova di Neri (Cerretalto is the most collected Brunello of the last decade). The Brunello Consortium (Piazza Cavour) organises guided tastings (€30-50, 4-6 wines). Brunello Riserva (minimum 5 years ageing, 2 in bottle) is the highest level — prefer it in vintages 2015 and 2016.
Pienza, Sant'Antimo and the Val d'Orcia
Pienza (26km from Montalcino, UNESCO) is the Renaissance 'ideal city' — built ex-novo by Pope Pius II Piccolomini in 1459-1462 on his native hill. The Cathedral, Palazzo Piccolomini (€7) and the central square are the first realisation of the Renaissance urbanism theorised by Alberti. Pecorino di Pienza (aged in tufa caves) is bought from the shops on Via del Bacio. Sant'Antimo (9km from Montalcino) is the 11th-12th century Romanesque abbey in the Val d'Orcia — the monks sing Gregorian chant at 7:15 (Lauds) and 12:30 (Sext). The Val d'Orcia (UNESCO, cypresses on ridges, golden wheat fields, the Crete Senesi) is Tuscany's most photographed landscape — best in May with poppies.
Practical tips
Rosso di Montalcino DOC (€20-50) is the most affordable way to taste the territory's style — same grape as Brunello
The Fortezza di Montalcino (€6) has the most complete Brunello selection — excellent alternative to cellars if you haven't booked
Sant'Antimo: the monks sing Gregorian chant at 7:15 and 12:30 — one of the most intense moments in rural Tuscany
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