Puglia is the heel of the Italian boot — 800km of coastline between the Adriatic and Ionian seas, the Tavoliere plain (Europe's largest durum wheat area), the Valle d'Itria's trulli, Leccese Baroque, the Gargano and white cities. It is Italy's fastest-growing tourism region over the last 10 years — still authentic in inland villages, already expensive on the coast in July-August. In 7 days the four main souls can be seen: the Gargano (north), Alberobello and the Itria Valley (centre), Lecce and the Salento (south), Matera (Basilicata, on the border). A car is essential. Airports: Bari-Karol Wojtyla (BRI, the main one), Brindisi-Papola Casale (BDS, closer to Lecce).
Days 1-2 — Gargano and Vieste
The Gargano (promontory north of Puglia, National Park) is the region's wildest territory — the Umbra Forest (beech and yew, rare broadleaf forest in the south), the beaches of Vieste and Peschici, the Tremiti Islands (ferry from Vieste, 45 min, €25 return). Vieste is the Gargano's most scenic medieval village — the historic centre on the promontory between two bays, the Chianca Amara (the large stone where Turkish prisoners were beheaded in 1554), the Pizzomunno (the 25m limestone monolith on the beach). The Gargano's finest beaches: Baia delle Zagare (only reachable by boat, €10 return), Vignanotica (2km on foot from the road, very white sand), Cala Sanguinara (near Peschici, difficult access, the wildest). Monte Sant'Angelo (17km from Vieste, UNESCO) is the rock sanctuary of Saint Michael the Archangel — Italy's oldest Christian sanctuary, carved into the rock in the 5th century AD.
Days 3-4 — Alberobello, Locorotondo and Ostuni
The Itria Valley is Puglia's white heart — trulli, masserias, centuries-old olive trees and indigenous wines. Alberobello (1,500 UNESCO trulli, Rione Monti) is the mandatory stop — the Rione Aia Piccola (adjacent, less touristy) has still-inhabited trulli. Locorotondo (very fresh DOC white wine, circular historic centre plan) and Martina Franca (elaborate local Baroque, Martina Franca raw ham) are the valley's most authentic villages. Cisternino (butcher shops with on-the-spot ember cooking — choose raw meat and they cook it in front of you) offers the most interesting gastronomy. Ostuni (the White City, visible from 20km) has the medieval hilltop historic centre — the late-Gothic Cathedral (15th century) and white houses descending towards the olive grove countryside. The masseria is the Itria Valley's typical accommodation — rural farmhouse converted to agriturismo, €80-200 per night.
Days 5-7 — Lecce, Otranto and the Salento
Lecce is the capital of Leccese Baroque — a unique 17th-18th century style in lecce stone (soft limestone, honey-coloured, workable like butter) that has transformed every city facade into a sculpture. The Basilica di Santa Croce (free) and Piazza del Duomo (free entry) are the masterpieces. Leccese pasticciotto (shortcrust pastry with custard and sour cherry, eaten hot at 7:00) is the identity sweet — from Ascalone or Natale. Otranto (40km from Lecce) has the cathedral mosaic floor (12th century, 54m long, Europe's largest, free) and the Grotte della Poesia (4th century BC, prehistoric graffiti, €3). Capo di Leuca (the tip of the heel, 75km from Lecce) is where the Adriatic meets the Ionian — the lighthouse and Finibus Terrae sanctuary. Porto Cesareo (Ionian, 35km from Lecce) and Torre dell'Orso (Adriatic, 40km) are the Salento's finest beaches.
Practical tips
The Gargano's finest beaches (Baia delle Zagare, Vignanotica) are reached by boat or on foot — avoid lido beaches
Sleeping in a Itria Valley masseria is Puglia's most authentic experience — book months in advance
The mosaic floor of Otranto Cathedral (54m, 12th century) is among Italy's most extraordinary things — very few people know it
Andria burrata is eaten fresh on the day of production — be wary of the supermarket bag version
Lecce in August is hot and crowded — May, June, September and October are the ideal months
