Puglia in five days allows covering the Gargano, the Itria Valley and the Salento without rushing. Italy's fastest-growing tourism region still has inland villages and unknown borghi — but the coasts in July-August are now as crowded and expensive as the Ligurian riviera. Best time: May, June, September, October. A car is essential. Airports: Bari-Karol Wojtyla (BRI) and Brindisi-Papola Casale (BDS, closer to Lecce and the Salento).
Days 1-2 — Gargano and Vieste
The Gargano (northern promontory, National Park) is Puglia's wildest territory — the Umbra Forest (the largest broadleaf forest in southern Italy), the beaches of Vieste (Baia delle Zagare by boat, Vignanotica on foot), the Tremiti Islands (ferry from Vieste, 45 min, €25 return). Monte Sant'Angelo (UNESCO, the 5th-century AD cave sanctuary of San Michele) is one of the world's main Catholic pilgrimage sites.
Days 3-5 — Itria Valley, Lecce and Salento
Alberobello (1,500 UNESCO trulli), Locorotondo (DOC white wine, circular centre), Cisternino (grilled bombette), Ostuni (the White City). Lecce: the Basilica di Santa Croce, Piazza del Duomo, hot pasticciotto at 7:00. Otranto: the Cathedral mosaic (54m, 12th century, Europe's largest, free). Gallipoli: the historic centre on an island, the Ionian beaches. Capo di Leuca: where the Adriatic meets the Ionian. Products to take home: Andria burrata, fresh orecchiette, Primitivo di Manduria, Nardò celline olives.
Practical tips
The Gargano's finest beaches are reached by boat (Baia delle Zagare) or on foot (Vignanotica) — not with beach clubs
May, June and September are the ideal months — July-August is as expensive and crowded as the Ligurian riviera
