Bari is Puglia's capital (320,000 inhabitants) and the main hub of the southern Adriatic — Karol Wojtyla airport with flights from all over Europe, port to Greece and Albania, station with the Ferrovie Sud Est towards the Itria Valley. Bari Vecchia (the historic centre on the promontory between the two ports) is a labyrinth of white alleys with the Basilica of St Nicholas and housewives still making orecchiette by hand outside the front door. Bari-style focaccia (thick, with cherry tomatoes and olives, €1.50 at the bakery) and orecchiette with turnip tops are the identity dishes. From Rome by train: 4h (Frecciarossa €35-70). From Naples: 3h 30' (Intercity €25-45). From Milan: 5h (Frecciarossa €45-90).
Bari Vecchia: Basilica of St Nicholas and the Alleys
The Basilica of St Nicholas (11th century, free, crypt with the saint's tomb) is one of Italy's most important pilgrimages — St Nicholas (our Santa Claus) is venerated by Latin Catholics and Greek and Russian Orthodox. The crypt has the saint's relics brought from Myra (Turkey) in 1087 by Bari sailors. Via dell'Arco Basso (in the Bari Vecchia maze) is the orecchiette street — elderly women make them in the morning seated outside the front door, freely viewable: an authentic attraction that exists nowhere else in Italy. The Norman-Swabian Castle (Frederick II, €6) and the Cathedral of San Sabino (12th century, Romanesque, free) complete the medieval centre. Bari's seafront (8km from the Fair to the Rotonda) is the Bari locals' daily evening promenade.
Bari Cuisine and Day Trips from Puglia
Bari-style focaccia (thick, soft, dimpled, with fresh cherry tomatoes and black olives, lots of oil — different from Genoese focaccia) is bought from bakeries in the Municipio area and Bari Vecchia (Forno Santa Rita, Via Calefati). Orecchiette with turnip tops (fresh handmade pasta using the 'trasciniatura' gesture that creates the cup) are the most Puglian dish — to seek in Bari Vecchia trattorie. From Bari in a day: Alberobello and the Itria Valley (65km, 50 min by car), Matera (65km, 1h 30' by car — the UNESCO cave city), Trani (44km, train 30 min €5 — the Romanesque cathedral on the sea is one of Italy's most beautiful), Castel del Monte (70km, car — the octagonal Frederician UNESCO castle).
Practical tips
Handmade orecchiette on Via dell'Arco Basso are made in the morning — go between 9:00 and 12:00
Bari-style focaccia (€1.50) is the mandatory breakfast — buy it from local bakeries, not chains
Trani (30 min by train, €5) has Italy's most beautiful Romanesque cathedral on the sea — worth the return trip
Castel del Monte (70km) is Frederick II's octagonal UNESCO castle — geometry and mystery unique in the world
Plan your Bari weekend
Bari Vecchia, orecchiette and Itria Valley — itinerary in 5 minutes.
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