Rome in four days allows visiting the main sites without rushing and exploring authentic neighbourhoods (Testaccio, Pigneto, Prati). The strategy: one large site per day (Colosseum, Vatican, Galleria Borghese, Musei Capitolini) plus the squares and neighbourhoods in free time. From Milan 2h 45' (Frecciarossa €30-70), from Naples 1h 10' (Frecce €20-45), from Florence 1h 30' (€30-70). ZTL active throughout the centre — don't bring a car.
Days 1-2 — Roman Forum, Vatican and Pantheon
Day 1: Colosseum + Roman Forum + Palatine (€18, mandatory online booking). The House of Augustus on the Palatine (original frescoes, separate booking) is the site's hidden gem. Evening: Trastevere with the Basilica di Santa Maria (12th century, mosaics). Day 2: Vatican Museums + Sistine Chapel (€20 online — without booking 3-5h queue) + St Peter's Basilica (free) + Michelangelo's Dome (€8 on foot). Castel Sant'Angelo (€15) at sunset with Tiber views. The Prati neighbourhood (near the Vatican) has the most authentic Roman trattorie in the area.
Days 3-4 — Borghese, Capitolini and Testaccio
Galleria Borghese (€15, mandatory 2h group booking, Rome's hardest to book — do it online weeks in advance): Bernini (Apollo and Daphne, the Rape of Proserpina, David — the three sculptures that revolutionised Western art), Canova (Paolina Borghese), Caravaggio (6 original canvases). Villa Borghese park (free) is Rome's lung — ideal for the midday break. Musei Capitolini (€16, online €11.50, closed Mondays): the world's oldest museum collection (founded 1471 by Pope Sixtus IV), the Capitoline Wolf, the Marcus Aurelius equestrian, the Dying Gaul. Testaccio (the butchers' neighbourhood): the Mattatoio (former slaughterhouse, now museum and cultural centre), the Testaccio Market (Rome's most beautiful covered market), coda alla vaccinara, rigatoni con la pajata.
Practical tips
The Galleria Borghese is Rome's hardest to book — do it online weeks in advance, places extremely limited
Carbonara has no cream — ever. Cacio e pepe has no cream, ever. If served with cream, change restaurant
Testaccio (coda alla vaccinara, supplì, pajata) is Rome's most authentic gastronomic neighbourhood — prefer it to Trastevere
