Sicily (25,711 km², the Mediterranean's largest island) is a destination that is never fully discovered — three millennia of cultural overlays (Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Aragonese, Bourbons) have produced an artistic and gastronomic heritage without parallel in the Mediterranean. In 7 days the main sites can be seen without rushing: Palermo, Monreale, Agrigento, Selinunte, Syracuse, the Baroque Val di Noto, Etna and Taormina. A car is essential for the distances. Airports: Palermo-Falcone Borsellino (PMO) and Catania-Fontanarossa (CTA) — low-cost flights from all over Europe make Sicily Italy's destination with the best accessibility-to-content ratio. Best season: April-June and September-October (July-August is very hot and crowded, especially on the coast).
Days 1-2 — Palermo and Monreale
Palermo (UNESCO Heritage 2015 for the Arab-Norman route) is Sicily's most layered city — the historic neighbourhoods (Ballarò, Vucciria, Capo, Borgo Vecchio) have the density and energy of a North African city, not a southern Italian one. The Palatine Chapel (Palazzo dei Normanni, €12, online booking) is the peak of Arab-Norman art — 12th-century golden mosaics fusing Byzantine, Islamic and Latin traditions. Monreale (8km, bus 389, €1.50, cathedral free, cloisters €3.50) has the world's most extensive medieval mosaic cycle — 6,340 sqm narrating the Bible from the Old to New Testament in 130 scenes. The Ballarò market (morning, Palermo's oldest) and street food (pane ca' meusa, sfincione, arancine) are the journey's most authentic gastronomic experience.
Days 3-4 — Agrigento and Selinunte
Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples (130km from Palermo, 1h 30' by car) are the peak of Sicilian Magna Grecia — the Temple of Concordia (480 BC, the world's best-preserved Greek temple) and the Griffo Regional Museum (€16 combined) are the priority. Selinunte (90km west of Agrigento, 3h from Palermo) is the most extensive archaeological park of western Greece — 7 temples from the 6th-5th century BC partly collapsed (the largest earthquake in the ancient Mediterranean, 3rd century BC) and partly re-erected. Temple E (480 BC, completely rebuilt with the original pieces in 1958) is the most photographed. The Scala dei Turchi (white marl cliff, 25km from Agrigento) and the Marsala salt flats (sea salt with windmills, spectacular sunset) complete the western itinerary.
Days 5-7 — Syracuse, Val di Noto and Taormina
Syracuse (UNESCO Heritage) is Sicily's most important Greek city — the Neapolis Archaeological Park (€16, 5th-century BC Greek theatre, Roman amphitheatre, Ear of Dionysius — a cave with exceptional acoustic properties) and the island of Ortigia (historic centre on an island connected by a bridge, the Cathedral with 5th-century BC Doric columns incorporated into the Christian structure). The Val di Noto (Noto, Ragusa Ibla, Modica, Scicli — UNESCO Heritage) is the Sicilian Baroque rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake: cities were rebuilt from scratch in honey-coloured limestone, with elaborate facades and theatrical staircases. Modica is famous for Modica chocolate (cold grinding without conching, grainy, flavoured with cinnamon, vanilla or chilli — Aztec recipe brought by the Spanish in the 16th century). Taormina and Etna conclude the tour.
Practical tips
Palermo's Palatine Chapel must be booked online — it is among Italy's most extraordinary things
Modica chocolate is bought from artisan shops — not the industrial kind. Try it with chilli pepper
Sicily in July-August is very hot (38-42°C) — April-June and September-October are the best months
Selinunte is often overlooked in favour of Agrigento — it has more temples and fewer tourists, worth the detour
The Ear of Dionysius in Syracuse (23m cave with exceptional echo) must be tested — shout something
Plan your Sicily week
Palermo, Agrigento, Syracuse and Taormina — tailored itinerary in 5 minutes.
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