Umbria in four days allows covering Perugia, Assisi, Spoleto, Orvieto and the Valnerina (with Norcia and Castelluccio). The landlocked region is the less-known Tuscany — equally beautiful landscapes, lower prices, fewer crowds. Norcia black truffle, Castelluccio lentils, Sagrantino di Montefalco and Sagrantino Passito are the most prized products. A car is necessary for inland villages. From Rome: 2h. From Florence: 1h 30'. From Bologna: 2h.
Days 1-2 — Perugia and Assisi
Perugia: National Gallery of Umbria (€8, Perugino, Pinturicchio, Piero della Francesca), Palazzo dei Priori (13th-15th century), Fontana Maggiore (1278), Rocca Paolina (fortress built by Paul III above the medieval Baglioni quarter — walkable underground, free). Perugina chocolate and the Bacio di Perugina (invented in Perugia in 1922) are bought at the Perugina Chocolate Museum (6km from centre, €12 with tasting). Assisi: Basilica of St Francis (free, Giotto frescoes in the Superiore and Cimabue, Simone Martini, Pietro Lorenzetti in the Inferiore), Temple of Minerva (1st century BC, intact facade, now a church), Rocca Maggiore (€5), Eremo delle Carceri (4km, free — the site's most mystical place).
Days 3-4 — Norcia, Castelluccio and Orvieto
Norcia (80km from Perugia) is the capital of black truffle and cured meats — norcineria is the art of preserving pork (hams, salamis, lonza, capocollo) that gave the name to the norcino (the butcher-charcutier). Norcia black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is harvested December to April. Castelluccio di Norcia (1,452m, 20km from Norcia) is the plateau that in May-June is covered with flowering lentils — the central Apennines' most extraordinary landscape. Orvieto (from Perugia 90km or from Rome 1h 20' by train, funicular included in ticket): the Gothic Cathedral and Cappella di San Brizio with Signorelli's Last Judgement (1499-1504 — the cycle that inspired Michelangelo for the Sistine), the Etruscan Underground City (€7, guided tours every hour), the Pozzo di San Patrizio (€5, Sangallo the Younger's double helix well, 1527).
Practical tips
The Castelluccio plains in May-June with flowering are unique — book parking in advance
The Cappella di San Brizio in Orvieto (Signorelli) is one of Italy's 20 most important artistic things — don't skip it
Norcia black truffle is bought from local norcinerie — December to April for the fresh product
Plan your Umbria trip
Perugia, Assisi, Norcia and Orvieto — tailored itinerary in 5 minutes.
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