Piedmont invented milk chocolate and gianduia — two of the world's most consumed forms of chocolate — out of economic necessity. When Napoleon imposed the continental blockade and cocoa became extremely rare and expensive, Turin's early 19th-century chocolatiers began mixing cocoa with Tonda Gentile hazelnut paste from the Langhe, which grew abundantly and cost very little. The result was a completely new product, softer and more aromatic than pure chocolate, named gianduia after Turin's Carnival mask. Today that same hazelnut paste is the main ingredient in Nutella — produced by Ferrero, a company from Alba. But Piedmont's confectionery tradition is much richer: Alba's torrone, Cuneo's marron glacé, Langhe paste di meliga, chocolate and amaretti bonet, panna cotta, Casale Monferrato's krumiri. This is the map.
The Gianduiotto and Turin's Chocolate Tradition
The gianduiotto is Turin's defining sweet — a small chocolate shaped like an inverted boat, created in 1865 by Caffarel for Turin's Carnival. It is made with gianduia (a mixture of cocoa and Tonda Gentile hazelnut paste from the Langhe in variable proportions, typically 30% hazelnut), worked by an extrusion method that creates the characteristic shape without a mould. It weighs about 8-10 grams. Quality varies enormously: industrial gianduiotti (Venchi, Novi) are sweet and unctuous; artisan ones (Guido Gobino, Domori, Peyrano, Gay-Odin) use freshly roasted Langhe IGP hazelnuts and single-origin cocoa. How to recognise a quality artisan gianduiotto: matt brown colour (not shiny), roasted hazelnut aroma preceding the chocolate, immediate melt in the mouth without stickiness. Turin's chocolate fair, Torino-Cioccolato, is held every October at Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Where to buy: Guido Gobino (Via Cagliari 15/B and shop in Via Lagrange), Peyrano (Corso Moncalieri 47), Gay-Odin (multiple city locations).
Alba's Torrone and the Tonda Gentile Hazelnut
Alba's torrone is among Italy's best — soft, with whole almonds and hazelnuts, coated with very thin wafer or dark chocolate. The Alba Torrone and Artisan Chocolate Fair is held every November, right after the Truffle Fair. Historic producers: Barbero (Cuneo), Witor's (Cremona, but the Langhe hazelnut torrone is the most Piedmontese). The Tonda Gentile delle Langhe IGP hazelnut is the basis of Piedmontese torrone: larger, more flavourful and more aromatic than Turkish hazelnuts (which dominate the world market) — Ferrero buys the Langhe's entire production every year for Nutella and Ferrero Rocher. Out of season find them in Alba and Langhe shops at €15-25/kg. Roast them fresh and use within a week: the flavour has no equal.
Cuneo's Marron Glacé and the Paste di Meliga
Cuneo's marron glacé is considered the world's finest for raw material: Cuneese chestnuts (Marrone di Cuneo IGP variety, grown on the Maritime Alps slopes) are among Europe's largest and most fleshy. The glazing process requires 15-20 days of progressive maceration in sugar syrup at increasing concentration: the result is a marron that holds its whole shape and has a soft, non-stringy texture. Reference producer: Cuneo Pasticceria Artigiana (various workshops in Cuneo centre). Season is October-November when chestnuts are fresh; out of season, syrup-preserved ones are used. Price: €8-12 per 100 grams at artisan pastry shops. Paste di meliga are the Langhe's biscuits: corn flour (meliga in Piedmontese dialect), butter, eggs, sugar, vanilla. Crumbly, golden, with a slight corn and butter flavour. Eaten with Moscato d'Asti or dipped in coffee. Every Langhe pastry shop has its own recipe.
Bonet, Panna Cotta and Spoon Desserts
Bonet (Piedmontese dialect for 'hat') is the Langhe's defining spoon dessert — a dark chocolate and amaretti pudding, baked in a bain-marie, served cold with caramel. The traditional recipe uses whole eggs, sugar, bitter cocoa, milk, crumbled amaretti and rum. Served by unmoulding from its round tin onto the plate — the caramel runs down the sides. Found in every Langhe and Monferrato trattoria, where it is almost obligatory to finish with bonet. Panna cotta likely originated in the Cuneese — a cream of double cream, sugar and gelatine, no eggs, served with berry coulis or caramel. The original version is much more delicate and less gelatinous than the international restaurant version. Cremino Fiat is the most Piedmontese industrial chocolate: three layers of milk chocolate, gianduia and hazelnut paste — invented by ICAM for FIAT in the 1960s, one of the finest examples of design applied to confectionery. Still produced and sold throughout Italy.
Krumiri and Savoy Pastry
Casale Monferrato's krumiri (AL) are one of Italy's most recognisable biscuits: curved comma shape, crumbly shortcrust pastry with butter and corn flour, invented in 1878 by Domenico Rossi. The name apparently derives from a phonetic deformation of 'krim', a Caucasus people, referring to the curved shape resembling an oriental fighter's moustache. The original and sole authorised producer is Pasticceria Rossi in Casale Monferrato. Savoy court pastry has left a series of sweets that still survive in Turin's historic pastry shops: savoiardi (egg biscuits named after the House of Savoy, now used in tiramisù but born here), baci di dama (round hazelnut biscuits joined by chocolate). Historic Turin pastry shops: Pfatisch (Via Buonarroti), Galup (Pinerolo) for the Piedmontese-style panettone.
Practical tips
A quality artisan gianduiotto (Guido Gobino, Gay-Odin) has a matt brown colour, roasted hazelnut aroma preceding the chocolate, and melts immediately in the mouth. The shiny one is industrial
Bonet (chocolate and amaretti pudding) is the obligatory dessert at any Langhe trattoria — not ordering it is a mistake Piedmontese people notice
Fresh Tonda Gentile delle Langhe IGP hazelnuts (September-October) are incomparably better than any other hazelnut — buy them in Alba shops at €15-25/kg and roast them yourself
Cuneo's marron glacé (€8-12 per 100g at artisan pastry shops) is the world's finest for raw material — Cuneese chestnuts are among Europe's fleshiest
Original krumiri are only bought at Pasticceria Rossi in Casale Monferrato (AL) — supermarket versions are imitations. Worth a detour if you are in the Alessandria or Asti area
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