Abruzzo is central Italy's least-known region for foreign tourists — and that is exactly its strength. It borders Lazio (Rome is 2h by car), Molise and Puglia, and is Italy's greenest region by surface proportion: a third of the territory is protected by national parks and reserves. The Gran Sasso (2,912m, the Apennines' highest peak) separates the Adriatic coast from the mountainous hinterland. The National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise (founded 1923, Italy's oldest) hosts the Marsican bear (an endemic subspecies, 50-60 specimens), the Apennine chamois and the Apennine wolf. Abruzzese cuisine is mountain and authentic: arrosticini (castrated lamb skewers), pasta alla chitarra, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC. Pescara airport (PSR, 20km from the sea, 1h 30' from L'Aquila).
National Park of Abruzzo and L'Aquila
The National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise (base: Pescasseroli, L'Aquila) is Italy's oldest park — founded in 1923 to protect the Marsican bear (Ursus arctos marsicanus, endemic subspecies with 50-60 specimens remaining). The Pescasseroli Visitor Centre organises guided excursions (€15-25) in search of bears — May-June and September-October are the best seasons. Castel del Monte (AQ, 1,346m) is one of Abruzzo's most intact medieval villages — white limestone houses, cobbled streets, authentic village life. L'Aquila (regional capital, under reconstruction after the 2009 earthquake) has the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio (12th century, white and pink Romanesque facade — one of Italy's most beautiful, free entry) and the Fountain of the 99 Cannelle (13th century, city symbol).
Trabocchi Coast and Arrosticini
The Trabocchi Coast (from Pescara to Vasto, Adriatic coast) takes its name from the trabocchi — ancient wooden fishing machines on stilts, used by Abruzzese fishermen for centuries, almost all converted today into waterside restaurants. The Trabocchi Cycleway (44km, from Francavilla al Mare to San Salvo, cycle path on the former railway route) is one of Italy's most scenic cycling routes — bike hire in Lanciano or San Salvo (€15-20/day). Vasto Marina beach and the Punta Aderci Nature Reserve (3km on foot from Vasto, free entry) are among the Adriatic's cleanest and most beautiful beaches. Arrosticini (castrated lamb skewers cut into 1cm cubes, cooked on the fornacella, 3-5 at a time) are Abruzzo's identity dish — eaten very hot, straight from the embers, standing up. The best arrosticinerie are along the SS17 between Pescasseroli and Sulmona.
Gran Sasso and Campo Imperatore
The Gran Sasso (2,912m, the Apennines' highest peak outside Sicily) is reachable from L'Aquila by the Gran Sasso cable car (€22 return, to 2,212m, arrival station at Campo Imperatore). Campo Imperatore (1,800m) is Italy's largest plateau — 25km long, called 'little Italian Tibet' for its windy, wild desolation. It is also the place where Mussolini was imprisoned before liberation by German paratroopers in 1943 (the Gran Sasso Raid). Fishing in Lake Campotosto (4 km², one of Italy's highest artificial lakes, 1,430m) and the Daniele Caprara via ferrata on Gran Sasso (grade D, experts) complete the outdoor activities. Sulmona (60km from L'Aquila) is the city of confetti (sugar-coated Avola almond sweets, produced here since the 15th century) and poet Ovid — medieval historic centre with the medieval aqueduct in the square.
Practical tips
Arrosticini are eaten standing up, very hot from the embers — don't sit and wait for them, they cool and lose everything
The Trabocchi Cycleway (44km) is one of Italy's finest cycling routes — bike hire in Lanciano (€15-20/day)
National Park of Abruzzo: guided excursions in search of Marsican bears are booked at the Pescasseroli Centre
Campo Imperatore (1,800m) by cable car from L'Aquila is one of Italy's wildest Apennine panoramas
Punta Aderci (nature reserve in Vasto) is the central Adriatic's most beautiful beach — free access, 3km on foot
