The Amalfi Coast is one of the world's most photographed destinations and one of the most logistically challenging — the coastal road (SS163) is narrow, winding and in high season practically blocked. But those who understand how to move — ferries instead of cars, early mornings on the beaches, sleeping on the coast rather than commuting from Naples — experience something incomparable: cliffs plunging straight into the sea, lemons the size of fists hanging from pergolas, coloured villages clinging to the rock. This 4-day itinerary covers the essential points of the coast and Sorrento Peninsula, with logistics designed to avoid the summer traffic chaos.
Day 1 — Arrival in Sorrento and First Hours
Sorrento (50km from Naples, 1h by car or Circumvesuviana from Naples Porta Nolana, €3.40) is the natural logistical point of the peninsula — more accessible than the coast, with a network of hotels and B&Bs for all budgets, and a rail station connected to Naples. The historic centre is pleasant but not essential — the arcades of Piazza Tasso, the Cathedral, the limoncello and tarsia (local wood inlay) shops. Best viewpoint: Villa Comunale, with the terrace dropping straight to the gulf. First evening: dinner at Marina Piccola port with fresh fish. Sorrento's known problem — summer tourists are enormous in number and prices are among the coast's highest. If budget permits, sleeping directly in Positano or Praiano is more authentic.
Day 2 — Positano and Praiano
Positano (17km from Sorrento, 35 minutes by ferry — always prefer ferry to car during summer season) is the coast's most photographed village — the multicoloured houses cascading to the sea, the majolica dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the Spiaggia Grande with its sunbeds. It is inevitably crowded in July-August, but at dawn (before 8:00) the village is still quiet. The walk from the centre towards Fornillo (the less crowded beach, 15 minutes on foot) is among the coast's finest. Praiano (7km beyond Positano, often ignored by group tours) has an equally beautiful position with fewer crowds, prices 30-40% lower, and the descent to Gavitella Beach (only on foot or by boat). For those wanting to walk the Path of the Gods: the trail starts from Bomerano (above Praiano) and reaches Nocelle above Positano — 7.5km of constant sea views, 3-4 hours.
Day 3 — Amalfi and Ravello
Amalfi (16km from Positano by ferry, 25 minutes) is the coast's main town — the city that in the 10th-11th century was one of the four Maritime Republics, with a merchant fleet reaching as far as Egypt. The Cathedral of Sant'Andrea (9th-13th century, Arab-Norman facade, Cloister of Paradise €3) is the main monument. The alleys behind the cathedral climb towards the Valle dei Mulini — the old paper mills (Amalfi paper, hand-worked, is still produced and sold locally). Ravello (6km above Amalfi, reachable by local bus €1.30 or on foot 1h 30'): Villa Cimbrone (gardens with the Terrace of Infinity, €7) and Villa Rufolo (with the summer music festival, €7) are the main stops. The Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone — marble statues overlooking the gulf — is among Italy's most celebrated panoramas.
Day 4 — Capri (optional) or Return via Naples
Day four offers two options. Capri (hydrofoil from Positano 20 minutes €20 return, from Sorrento 25 minutes €24 return): the Mediterranean's most glamorous island can be visited in a day — the Blue Grotto (entry €14 + €13 boat, early morning only), Anacapri with Monte Solaro (chairlift €12, views over the Bay of Naples), Villa Jovis (Tiberius's villa, €3). Avoid in August — extreme crowds and tripled prices. Alternative: return to Naples (fast ferry from Sorrento 1h €13 or hydrofoil €22) with an afternoon in the UNESCO historic centre — Spaccanapoli, the Duomo, the National Archaeological Museum (the world's most important for Roman artefacts, €15). Pizza: real Neapolitan pizza (Da Michele, Sorbillo, Gino Sorbillo) must be eaten on location and costs €4-8. Essential logistics: never bring a car to the coast in high season — ferries and SITA buses are the only rational solution.
Practical tips
Never bring a car on the SS163 in July-August — ferries between Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno are faster, cheaper and incomparably less stressful
Positano at dawn (before 8:00) is a different village — quiet, local, without crowds. Worth the early alarm
Praiano has the same position as Positano with fewer tourists and prices 30-40% lower — consider it as an alternative base
The Path of the Gods (7.5km, 3-4 hours) is the most beautiful way to see the coast from above — start early from Bomerano and arrive at Nocelle above Positano
The Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone (Ravello, €7) is among Italy's finest panoramas — visit at opening (9:00) for the best light and fewer people
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