Bologna is the Italian city most underrated by foreign tourists — and the Bolognesi know it and are secretly proud of it. The oldest university in the Western world (1088), Italy's richest cuisine, 38km of UNESCO arcades (2021), the two medieval towers and a gastronomic scene that has exported tortellini, mortadella and ragù alla bolognese to every corner of the planet. It is not a postcard city — it is a city to live in. From Milan by train: 1h on the Frecciarossa (€15-35). From Florence: 35 min (€10-25). From Rome: 2h 10' (€30-60). Marconi airport (BLQ) is 6km from the centre — AerobusBLQ (€6, 30 min) or taxi (€15 fixed).
The Two Towers and the Medieval Centre
The Two Towers — Torre degli Asinelli (97m, 498 steps, €5, Italy's tallest still-accessible medieval tower) and Torre Garisenda (48m, more inclined than the Leaning Tower of Pisa, not visitable) — have been Bologna's symbol since the 12th century. Originally the city had over 100 towers — power symbols of noble families. Piazza Maggiore is the main square: the Basilica di San Petronio (construction began 1390, unfinished — it would have been larger than the Vatican if completed, free entry), the 13th-century Palazzo del Podestà and Giambologna's Neptune Fountain (1566). The National Picture Gallery (€6, closed Mondays) has the most important collection of Bolognese painting — Guido Reni, the Carracci, Guercino. The Civic Medieval Museum (€5) holds northern Italy's most important medieval armour collection.
Bolognese Cuisine: Tortellini, Ragù and Mortadella
The original ragù alla bolognese (deposited at the Chamber of Commerce in 1982) has nothing to do with the international version: it is not made with minced meat alone but with beef, pancetta, onion, carrot, celery, tomato, white wine and milk — and served with egg tagliatelle (not spaghetti, ever). Tortellini in brodo (filled with mortadella, prosciutto, Parmesan, nutmeg, in meat broth) is Bologna's Sunday and Christmas dish. IGP mortadella (produced only in Emilia) is Italy's oldest cured meat — pistachio and white fat culatelli are mandatory in the original. The Mercato di Mezzo and the botteghe around Via Pescherie Vecchie are the real gastronomic centre — Tamburini, La Baita, Paolo Atti & Figli are the oldest delicatessens. Crescentina (Bolognese fried bread, served hot with cold cuts) is the local starter.
The University and Student Life
The University of Bologna (founded 1088, the oldest in the Western world) has 90,000 students in a city of 400,000 inhabitants — 22% of the population is university-related. This gives Bologna a nightlife and cultural vitality that no other Emilian city has. The osterie and trattorie of Via del Pratello, Via Mascarella and Via delle Belle Arti are the places of student evening life — low prices, authentic cooking, genuine atmosphere. The Quadrilatero (the medieval streets around Piazza Maggiore) is the heart of historic commerce — cheese shops, delicatessens, pastry shops. The Art and History Collections (Palazzo d'Accursio, €5) include the famous Madonna of San Luca. The Sanctuary of San Luca (7km from the centre, connected by the world's longest covered arcade — 666 arches for 3.8km) is Bologna's highest panoramic point.
Day Trips from Bologna: Ferrara, Modena and the Via Emilia
Ferrara (40km, 30 min by train, €5) is the Este Renaissance city — the Castello Estense (14th century, €12, still with original dungeons) in the city centre and Ferrara's Walls (9km, cyclable, UNESCO Heritage). Modena (40km, 20 min by train, €5) is the capital of traditional DOP balsamic vinegar (minimum 12 years ageing, €50-150 per 100ml) and DOP Parmigiano Reggiano — Modena's Romanesque Cathedral (UNESCO) and the Palazzo dei Musei complete the visit. The Lamborghini Museum (Sant'Agata Bolognese, 30km, €15) and the Ferrari Museum in Maranello (40km, €17) are reachable by car — the Motor Valley Pass (€35) includes both.
Practical tips
Original ragù alla bolognese is served with egg tagliatelle, never with spaghetti
Torre degli Asinelli (497 steps) is worth the climb — the view over the arcades and towers is incomparable
Via del Pratello and Via Mascarella are the authentic student neighbourhoods — cheaper and livelier than the tourist centre
The Sanctuary of San Luca (3.8km of arcades) is reached on foot in 1h — the view over Bologna and the Apennines is spectacular
Modena in a day (20 min by train): balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano and the UNESCO Cathedral
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