Siena (75km from Florence, 1h 15' by SITA bus €9 return or 1h 30' by car via SS2 Cassia or Chiantigiana) is the opposite of Florence: Gothic rather than Renaissance, vertical rather than horizontal, divided into 17 contrade that still fight in the Palio. The UNESCO historic centre is intact — the medieval streets, Gothic palaces and Italy's most beautiful square have survived the centuries without the destruction that has marked other cities. The fundamental rule: sleep at least one night in Siena if you can — the city without tourists, from sunset onwards, is a completely different experience from midday Siena.
Piazza del Campo and the Torre del Mangia
Piazza del Campo is the shell-shaped square (9 terracotta segments sloping towards the centre — one for each of the Noveschi's governments) where the Palio is run (2 July and 16 August, bareback horse race between the 17 contrade, free entry to the square but impossible to find a place without organising months in advance). Torre del Mangia (102m, €10, 400 steps) is the 14th-century civic tower — the view from the top encompasses the Campo, the Sienese countryside and Monte Amiata. Palazzo Pubblico (9th century, €9) is one of Italy's most important medieval palaces — the Museo Civico on the upper floor contains Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Buongoverno (1338-1340), medieval Europe's most important secular fresco cycle: Allegory of Good Government, Allegory of Bad Government and the effects of good and bad government on the city and countryside.
The Cathedral and the OPA SI Pass
The OPA SI Pass (€17, mandatory purchase online or at ticket office) includes the Cathedral, Baptistery, Opera del Duomo Museum, Crypt and the Porta del Cielo (climb on the Cathedral facade, limited places — book separately). Siena Cathedral (construction began 12th century, completed 14th) is the pinnacle of Italian Gothic — Giovanni Pisano's facade with statues of apostles and prophets (originals in the Opera Museum), the marble inlay floor (56 panels from the 14th-16th centuries, covered almost all year and uncovered August-September), the Piccolomini Library with Pinturicchio's ten frescoes (1502-1508) on the life of Enea Silvio Piccolomini (later Pope Pius II). The Opera Museum (in the unfinished side of the New Cathedral) houses Duccio di Buoninsegna's Maestà (1308-1311) — the absolute masterpiece of Sienese painting.
The Contrade and Sienese Cuisine
The 17 contrade are Siena's historic rioni — each with its own museum, church and baptismal font where newborns are baptised. The contrade system is alive and still functioning — a Sienese identifies with the contrada before the city. Sienese cuisine: panforte (dense medieval sweet with spices, almonds and candied fruit — invented in the 13th century by Sienese pharmacists as a medicinal preparation), ricciarelli (almond paste biscuits, oval shape, scented with vanilla and lemon), cince forte (Christmas sweet with honey, spices and pepper). Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (40km from Siena) and Chianti Classico DOCG are the territory's wines.
Practical tips
The OPA SI Pass (€17) is always worthwhile — includes the entire cathedral complex and must be bought online
The Cathedral floor is uncovered only in August-September — plan your visit accordingly
Siena without tourists from sunset onwards is a different city — sleep at least one night if you can
The Palio (2 July and 16 August) requires months of organisation for a decent place in the square — don't improvise
Siena panforte is bought from Nannini (the historic pastry shop in Piazza Salimbeni) — not from souvenir shops
